Though the fascinator burst on the scene with royal pomp and prestige, it immediately fell into obscurity until its heady heyday between 1889 and 1909 when it reached its zenith. Thereafter the fashion's popularity quietly ebbed and flowed from 1935 until the 21st century, with increasing demand ever since.
TheHummingBirdRoad.com explains it this way, "It was in the late 17th century that women’s headwear began to emerge in its own right and not to be influenced by men’s fashions. By the mid 1800’s Swiss and Italian straws, together with imitation straws made from paper, cardboard, grass and horsehair were available to women, along with the introduction of velvet and tulle. Lace was also introduced, mostly used as hair caps underneath large flamboyant hats decorated with feathers. As ladies in the 18th century started to dress their hair in elaborate high styles, so hats became hair pieces – or fascinators – small arrangements of feathers, beads, netting, ribbons and flowers.... Now hair fascinators are an elegant alternative to a hat and are much favored by mothers of the bride and bridesmaids who'd rather not wear a tiara. Increasingly, modern brides are also going for a delicate, original fascinator instead of a veil or jeweled headpiece."
Thus the case can be made that the fascinator's inspiration, if not origin, sprang from the late 17th century's overblown and often outlandishly adorned wigs. At the time, size did seem to matter insomuch as the elevation of one's wig often equated to his or her rank in societal standings. These cotton candy couture coifs boasted everything from stuffed birds to live ones in cages and model ships. Which brings to mind by far and away the most jaw-dropping hats I have ever seen.... which I will keep tucked under my cap for another post... not so as tease the reader or her hair ... it's just that the headdresses in question are so over the tippy-top in size and scope they will most likely take up the whole page!
So instead I will defer to the article on the subject I enjoyed most, by Clare Douglas as published in the National Post. It was too good not to quote in its entirety:
Modern-day fascinators, embellished hair ornaments adorned to one’s head with either a comb, clip or band have become the go-to celebratory headpiece, with society pages brimming with trendsetters showcasing their attachment to the daring hat alternative. Less fussy than a full-coverage hat, perfect for keeping blowouts voluminous, light and airy for warm summer nights and the ability to transform a simple cocktail dress into a formal stunner — the fascinator is turning heads.
At the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards, Lady Gaga’s steak fascinator declared no limits in headwear design, and thanks to conceptual milliners like Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy (tapped to dress many royal wedding guests), variegated headpieces are now a staple in accessory editorials and the piece de resistance of an outfit. Alisa Horth has been creating headwear for over 16 years through her Vancouver-based line Alice Hart Couture Millinery.
Recognizing the British influence attributed to hat trends, Horth also believes that fascinators are simply "more comfortable to wear than some formal hats." With comfort on their side, the past decade has witnessed a fascinator frenzy — from a blossoming English garden on top of Sarah Jessica Parker’s head to Kate Middleton’s catalogue of feathery fantasies, simple bridal flair and pretty party accessories. Toronto milliner Nicole McInnis, of Oh Dina! designs, has witnessed a new-found understanding and appreciation for this distinctive headpiece. McInnis states that, in the past, people "had to ask what fascinators were, but now they know." Why the switch to these must-have toppers? Canadians are "embracing crazier styles. People are becoming more risque with their fashion — a little less safe," she says.
Even time-honoured fashion festivities have been affected. Parades of millinery masterpieces have eclipsed that of thoroughbreds at horse racing events from Royal Ascot to the Melbourne Cup and Kentucky Derby. Former Ladies Days’ odds-on-favourite hats-of-grandeur have been defeated, with substantial fascinators becoming the headpieces of choice. If Eliza Doolittle were to make her debut at Royal Ascot today, she might forgo her distinctive Cecil Beaton chapeau for a brimless plethora of flowers and fruit as an ode to her simple beginnings — because making a statement has been at the core of headdress for centuries.
Fascinator is a recent designation but its ornamental essence is deeply rooted in 18th-century dress. British women paired the popular "Dutch" hairstyle with a topknot, also known as a pompom — made up of ribbons, small feathers, butterflies and jewels and secured to the front or off to the side of the head. During the late 1700s, Marie Antoinette and other French ladies of influence had a strong desire for beauty, prestige and attention, igniting battles in creativity and flamboyancy. Hair-covered cushions stuffed with wool or horsehair, resembled tall egg-shaped towers and acted as foundations for fastened adornment. Flowers, lace, jewelled pins, fruit, garden scenes — anything and everything was considered fair game. (Clipped-on battleships and cannons to celebrate war victories? Why not?)
Revolutions and recessions slowed down the practice of extreme headdress, but moderate decorative pieces have always been present, with a shift toward varying types of formal hats in the early 20th century from large-brimmed Merry Widows to the sophisticated pillbox, before today’s headgear bursting with clipped-on confidence took top spot on the hat rack.
Feathers have always been a chief decorative material in millinery. Ivan Sayers, fashion historian from Vancouver’s Original Costume Museum Society shares that, "historically feathers were not only pretty, but were used to showcase allegiance to political parties and devotion to the royal family." Chances are ladies won’t be using feathers to parade their pick for prime minister over the next few weeks, but this tradition is still exercised. Recently, Kate Middleton debuted a pheasant-plume-topped fascinator designed by Vivien Sheriff Millinery — atop sat a badge representing the Royal Welch Fusiliers, a regiment within the Prince of Wales Division of the British Armed Forces.
From simple to extreme, fascinators will draw a range of responses, from "What is that?" to "I want one!" There’s no need to fear the fascinator. If you look at it with a "What am I thinking?" attitude, just remember that you’ve survived numerous "What was I thinking?" moments. Simply said by McInnis, "fascinators make you feel pretty." And in the end, no matter how you get there, or what you have on your head, that feeling is what really fascinates.
Whether you find yourself invited to a royal wedding or would simply like a little splash of color topside to set off your ensemble, there is a fascinator for every look and price range. Happy shopping... and may you feel and look fascinating!
anuccia
some informative tidbits from ooh la la plume... whom I love
celeb fascination
the cocktail hat
misc info